
I landed in Bogota on 27th July. To acclimatise to the 2,600m of altitude, I spent the first 4 days of the trip there. During that time, I grew more and more nervous about starting the trip and the ride out of the city.
Many people had warned me about the dangers of Colombia, but I pushed those thoughts to the back of my mind. However, when locals started warning me of certain areas it was difficult not to internalise these fears. The nerves built and, on the morning of day 4 when I was about to leave Bogota, I was feeling almost sick with fear. I planned the route, which would use mostly the autopista (motorway), with my warmshowers host - a Colombian cyclist born and raised in Bogota. This gave me some piece of mind, as I wouldn't go through any really dangerous neighbourhoods. Instead, I had the crazy traffic to contend with.
The 20km ride was terrifying but, needless to say, I made it out in one peace.

Once I was out of the city the vibe changed completely and I immediately felt more relaxed. Since then, I've gradually felt more and more comfortable. I'm still very careful and take precautions for my safety and the security of my bike, but I feel pretty safe. The people of Colombia have been incredibly welcoming, even more so the further north I get. All day I've had people smiling, waving and wishing me well. On Saturday, I was amazed to see tonnes of local cyclists out and about on their bikes, many giving waves and nods in the typical cyclist fashion.

But, since I’ve gotten over the safety aspect, a new emotion has crept to the surface: loneliness.
After leaving the city, I knew it would be multiple days until I would meet another English speaker. This would have its perks: it would force me to practise my spanish daily and to learn quickly. On the other hand, it would mean feelings of isolation and loneliness would become a constant.
After a few days of this loneliness, I met a Colombian who spoke English. He advised me that the place I was going to the following day would be a touristy place - I would meet people there for sure. I held on to this hope and so I was massively disappointed when I arrived at a practically empty hostel and nobody to speak to. That day would be my much-needed rest day and I would spend it alone. As much as I like alone time, this was more than I was comfortable with.
I had a bit of a cry that evening, feeling pretty low. A good chat on the phone with loved ones from home helped set me straight and I did my best to get into a better mindset for the following day. At this point though I was re-thinking my whole trip, and considering if this way of travelling was really what I wanted from the next year! I figured it best not to make any rash decisions but rather give it more time. The last week had been an assault on the senses and I wanted to allow my mind the time to catch up.Â
That was 3 days ago. I hit the road again the following day, despite waking up with the feeling of dread in anticipation for the day ahead. After an hour or so on the road, I stopped for a coffee and something shifted in my mood. The route was getting more beautiful by the minute and the people were more friendly. One interaction, in particular, lifted my spirits. I had stopped in a small village to buy some snacks when a woman came over, asked me what I was doing there and then said something to the effect of "We don't see foreigners here so it's a surprise to see you. We are very happy to have you here in our small village and we welcome you to Colombia. We hope you have a wonderful trip." That brought a smile to my face and was exactly what I needed at that moment.Â

Since then I've found my flow again and I've immersed myself in the riding with new enthusiasm. I had my first wow moment yesterday as I passed over a mountain with panoramic views of the area and I got the feeling of euphoria that I associate with cycling in cool places.
Today I'm taking some rest, as tomorrow I'll start a remote route following dirt tracks through the mountains. The route will take me around two weeks and will surpass 4,000m with a variety of landscapes along the way. From what I've heard, it should be an incredible ride.
But for now: Thank you, Colombia for the warm welcome.
Awesome challenging adventure